From strong-shouldered tailoring to velvet after dark, here’s how to wear this season’s most compelling coats, one considered layer at a time
Outerwear is where every autumn/winter wardrobe begins. A sculptural coat or a supple, broken-in leather jacket is the final flourish that makes a look feel finished. This season, though, the runways asked for more than one hero piece. At Prada, each model walked four times, shedding a layer with every pass to reveal a new look beneath. The message was clear: getting dressed for the cold is a craft. Here are the season’s key outerwear stories, and how to wear them now…
The statement coat, built for life
If one piece defines the season, it’s a coat that commands the room on its own. Think sharply cut wool with defined shoulders and a nipped waist. Buy one with enough room to wear over a chunky knit, and keep everything underneath pared back. A fine rollneck, a column skirt and sheer black tights let the coat do the talking.
The styling trick: layers upon layers
Start close to the body with a fine-knit rollneck or a crisp poplin shirt. Add a mid-layer, such as a V-neck cardigan or a cropped leather jacket, then a coat long enough to frame it all. Mix textures with intent: matte wool over glossy leather, mohair over silk. Keep each layer slightly longer or shorter than the last, so the hems read as part of the design rather than an accident. To finish, throw a cashmere knit over your shoulders or wear your coat caped, arms free.
Leather, reconsidered
The leather jacket remains a wardrobe staple, but this season, its styling takes on a more considered approach. Play with proportions by layering an oversized silhouette over a fine knit or a knit dress and knee-high boots. Alternatively, balance a cropped jacket with fluid, wide-leg trousers for a more elongated silhouette. The art lies in the interplay of textures and proportions – a little structure, a softer layer and just the right amount of contrast.
Shearling, fur and the tactile coat
Texture is the throughline of the season, from shearling to plush faux fur. The polished version: keep the coat as the only textural element, set against dark denim or leather trousers, a simple knit and a tiny bit of heel.
The texture: velvet
Velvet was one of the season’s key textures, and it needn’t be saved for parties. A velvet jacket in chocolate, bottle green or deep plum sits beautifully under a wool overcoat. Wear a velvet blazer over a white tee and straight-leg jeans, and keep it to one velvet piece per look. For evening, go tonal, with a velvet coat over a silk slip in the same shade, for the season’s quietest kind of drama.